This travelogue has been inked by Hazrat Shaykh Sayyed Muhammad Talha Qasmi Naqshbandi Mujaddidi Damatabarkatahum enlisting his experience during the Naqshbandi Festival held in Uzbekistan in the October-November 2019.
The readers would be well advised to note the original transcript has been documented in the Urdu language. The below transliteration by his team of disciples is a failing attempt to bring forth Hazrat DB’s thoughts at the least. The team is conscious of our inability to not being able to translate the emotions that ensue, as is the won’t during such occurrences. The team therefore finds itself seeking pardon from the readers for the many misgiving and shortcomings in the transliteration where not being infallible, we ask every error in word, space and comma should be attributed to the team and none to Hazrat DB (God forbid). The possibility of trying to do justice to such an attempt lingers large in our hearts however it is through the blessings of Hazrat DB one recognises it is but just that, a possibility.
In hope and gratitude, we seek your supplications not being worthy much.
(Part 1)
Arranged and Presented by: Sayyed Muhammad Talha Qasmi, Khaadim, Silsila-e-Aaliyaa-Naqshbandiyah, Khanqaah Darul-Ehsan
Bismillah-hir-Rahmaan-nir-Raheem
Tashkent, Bukhara, Samarqand, these names were heard of since my early childhood. However it was about 11 years ago, after reading the renowned and extraordinarily impressive travelogue christened as ‘From Lahore to Bukhara and Samarqand’ by Shaykh-ul Arab wal Ajam Qutube Alam Hazrath Moulana Hafiz Peer Zulfiqar Ahmad Sahab Naqshbandi Mujaddidi Da’mat Barakatuhum, a desire to visit these places, especially in the company of my Shaykh (spiritual mentor, tutor, scholar, guide), saw itself being ignited in my heart. There were no obvious signs visible or means to fulfil this desire. The visit as such was not rather difficult by itself should one have chosen to do so, however the heart preferred a visit in the company of Hazrat (Shaykh Zulfiqar Ahmad Naqshbandi Mujaddidi DB).
The mind used to say:
Maa Kullu ma yatammanal mar’u yudriku hu
Tajrirriyaahu bima laa tashtahissufun(It is not necessary that all the desires of a person get fulfilled).
However the heart turned a deaf ear to the cranium’s advice.
Our Hazrath’s designated and trusted Khalifa (disciple of Hazrat Shaykh and mentor to his disciples) Hazrath Shaykh Abdul Kareem Saahab’s (based in Malaysia), continuous efforts of many a years bore fruit. Shaykh Abdul Kareem Saahab succeeded in being granted permission by the Government of Uzbekistan, to invite the followers (saaliqeen) of Silsila-e-Naqshbandiyah globally, to visit these blessed places of their elders for spiritual benefit under the supervision and guidance of the authorities in an organised manner.
The intention was to join this year’s festival and a small group was formed thus, however as time flew and the departure date inched closer, this caravan of yearning and love, grew from strength in numbers to more, many more.
It was last year (2018), when the first such program was organised where yours truly was also asked after. However the travel did not happen sighting reasons sundry.. The yearning for such an opportunity to present itself again longed much and deep, to visit the Khanqaah (a place for Sufi gatherings), from where the Nubuwwate Muhammadi – Prophetic blessings (of Prophet Muhammad) and prosperity, cladd in the Naqshbandi vesture, reached every nook and corner of the world, traversing like the light at dawn that blossoms through the darkness of the night, announcing its arrival and departure of the rayless, sombre, unlit, tenebrous, caliginous dusk.
The longing to see the Mosques aplenty, one from where Imam Bukhaari (RA) resonated of heart-wrenching ‘Qaala Rasulullahi Swallalaahu wa sallam’, and created a team of Muhaddiths (Interpreters of Hadiths).
Enduring then to visit the Mosque of Khwaja Ubaidullah Ahraar (RA) and purify our souls with tears of repentance. Find the restless heart experience solace in the remembrance of Allah, where kings and rulers were in attendance, paying their respects, alike.
The intention was to join this year’s festival and a small group was formed thus, however as time flew and the departure date inched closer, this caravan of yearning and love, grew from strength in numbers to more, many more.
Friends from Bhiwandi, Pune, Vapi, Surat, Bangalore, Mysore, Hyderabad, Kanpur, Kolkatta and Delhi gathered in Delhi and found itself in Tashkent travelling from Delhi via Amritsar aboard the Uzbekistan Airline departing on 29 October 2019, at 7:45 am India time.
Part 2
Uzbekistan as a country is full of scenic beauty with green meadows.
We did not witness brazen or dry land during the entire journey. A garden is found in every house. Usually there is a passage through the garden which leads to the house entrance laden with grapes climbers atop. A plethora of canals, an abundance of the cotton crop with apple and grapes farm far too many.
We were witness to harvests of wheat, barley and corn with sugarcane being conspicuous with its absence. One is unaware of the reason for such an occurrence of sugarcane being so in the country or if it is confined to our routes of travel.
The country is very clean. There were no traces of dirt, leave alone garbage. Cleanliness, in parks or locales is a way of life as is evident from either places with no signs of plant leaves or litter around.
The residents are very beautiful, soft natured, and rather well mannered, where the general populace is dressed in western attire. The women prefer western clothing and do not use the veil barring very few amongst then who do cover their heads or wear Hijaab. Alcohol is found commonplace. Mixed gatherings give away the intermingling of either genders.
The prolonged communist rule has deprived the people of Islamic teachings, forcibly so. The seminary students, teachers, religious scholars, preachers at the mosques almost all are without a beard (an obvious given for such a community otherwise) with the exception of the preacher at the mosque of Sayyed Imam Bukhari (RA) who was clad in Islamic attire. Such examples are seldom found and can be classed as an exception.
The scholars are concerned about the veil; may Allah bless them; the authorities are not religious adding to the woes. One gathers the students and scholars have been arguably forced to shave their beards where such directives to shave the beard are never advised of however obvious enough for one keeping a beard to understand so.
The economy is not the strongest with currency prices reflecting so, the general populace is hardworking and content. Where otherwise would be common place, begging here is unheard of, if at all.
One of our companions wanted to give some money to a servant at the shrine of Imam Tirmizi (RA), but he refused to take it and returned the money saying if you want to donate, then put it in the donation box.
Traffic system:
The roads are widespread, people are disciplined.
We Indians long to hear the sound of horns, No one knows how to cut a lane.
Hazrat Sheikh Abdul Karim Sahab was present at the Tashkent airport with the entire staff, who treated very well (since this festival was being supervised by the government authorities) boarded the bus. Enroute the hotel Abdul Karim Saahab educated the travellers of the country. He explained that while more than 90% of the population is Muslim however one cannot be certain of food being Halaal. Selling liquor at the teashop along with tea is not considered unusual.
Hotels serve meat of all animals alike, there are hotels take good care in serving only Halaal food, these however need to be searched for. We had to spend a night in Tashkent at a hotel, where we met a British scholar from Oxford, who has been resident there for 3 years studying Uzbek history.
We spoke for a while, where he was rather pleased to witness our congregation Prayer (Zohar).
Brother Taher was translating, the topic of discussion being history, we found ourselves being educated from his research. Soon after, with wisdom, we tried to bring forth the reason for birth, the purpose of life, and the here-after (in essence discuss Islamic teachings with him).He made it clear that such a discussion would be of no interest to him, given he is content with the teachings he has had from his elders and ambience he is bred in citing his upbringing as a Christian.
A substantial populace of the western world, where they appear Christian however are devoid of any religion (in the absence of a logically convincing faith).
Yours truly, with much love and respect, explained, just as closing the eyes does not eliminate the facts of the world, similarly not paying attention, will not change the purpose of your creation, the creator will take account.
If we give some money to our child or an employee, we ask of its account. Our Lord has given us such a precious life, and has arranged for all the known and unknown needs of this life such one cannot fathom them hitherto, leave alone counting them, will he not take account?
He (Allah) has said and spoken the truth in The Quran
ان الینا ایابہم ثم ان علینا حسابہم
Inna Ilaina Iyabahum. Summa Inna Alaina Hisabahum
Everyone has to come back to us and we will take account of all.
If you ever feel like need to prepare for this account, we earnest and sincere recommendation is to study the Qur’an
Meeting Japanese:
After Isha prayers, Huzaifa (Bangalore) along with some others brought a Japanese young man to the room and we met him,
This humble person briefly talked about the Hereafter and Paradise and Hell and said that in order to escape from Hell, it is necessary to testify to Tawheed (One God) and Risaalat (acknowledge the Prophet). He gladly read the Kalima (Shahadah – testing there is One God Allah and Prophet Muhammad (SAW) is His messenger) and participated with us in meditation (Muraqba),
Experience states reading the Kalima brings light into the heart.
Then this spark becomes a flame of faith whenever it has a chance.
The next day, we went out of our hotel to pray Zuhr but the bus took us to the most beautiful mosque here that was built four years ago and is very spacious and very beautiful, its color changes a little at night.
Usually, the prayer is at the top, Imam Sahib showed down where six kilos of pure gold has been used in Tazin.
After requesting the Imam, this humble narrator briefly gave Bayaan in Arabic and the Imam Sahib translated it in the local language,
Later it was discovered that this is the first discourse of a foreigner in this mosque.
Otherwise, no foreigner is allowed to give speeches in a mosque in this country,
When we arrived for food, Sheikh Abdul Karim Sahab (of Malaysia) reported that the news of this discourse is being shared across the country, and it was being heard everywhere.
The summary of the discourse was Almighty Allah has blessed yourselves with political and religious freedom, It is therefore imperative that a journey is begun backward traversing the past which is is rich in heritage and blessed.
Your elders have indebted the Islamic world, through their teachings and more so in the preparation of the Islamic bibliotheca, The Islamic world is full of gratitude and will be so until the Day of Judgment; of Imam Bukhari, of Imam Abu Dawood, of Imam Tirmidhi, Of Imam Ibn Majah, of Imam Nasafi, of Fakeeh Abu al-‘Alias Samarqandi, of Sahibe Hidaya, and numerous such erudites.
Just as the secret of a tree’s elevation and towering lies in its abysmal roots underneath, likewise, our strength and reverence (in being educated) is owed to a strong relationship with our past (reference these scholars – where language limits itself through mannerisms or words to express our gratitude).
Lunch was had at Bait ul Mandi Hotel. Mandi is a special rice mixture prevalent amongst the Arabs; (Bait Al Mandi) it is the only Arab food eatery in Uzbekistan,
We met Sheikh Mohammed Rajab Deeb and Sheikh Mehmood of Damascus, at the lunch table. Much in the same breath was a meeting with Sheikh Suleiman joined of France who had arrived with his companions.
Sheikh Suleiman is of French origin who reverted to Islam and took allegiance at the hands of Sheikh Rajab Deeb RA of Damascus. He spent a considerable time with his Shaykh after which he was granted permission (Ijazat and Khilafat) to serve the Silsila in Damascus and is now doing so in France. He could speak Arabic when so required, is a very humble and well-mannered man.
Our journey onwards to Bukhara was scheduled for the evening, therefore we finished lunch, prayed Asr and reached the railway station.
One had never imagined a railway station kept with such cleanliness (this is unheard of in India). We offered Maghrib prayer with congregation in the designated payer room at the station, we met Sheikh Mustafa Kamal Sahab and Mufti Inamul Haq here.
Mustafa Kamal Sahab is based in Mecca, is a very close companion of Hazrat Ji Damat Barakatham, and often accompanies Hazrat during his travels. He also been granted permission (Ijazat) from Hazrat jee.
Mufti Inamul-Haq Sahab is an Islamic scholar likewise has been granted permission by Hazrat jee, he is the teacher of Hadith in the Madrasa of Aalipur (Gujarat).
The train we were onboard was a super-fast train designated for travels between Tashkent and Bukhara only, it has an average speed of 230 km per hour. The train has three levels, Economy Class, Business Class, and First Class.
We were sat in the business class the train being chair car with toilets very spacious and clean, food and consumables were being sold on the trolleys as is the won’t in an airplane. The journey lasts 5 hours.
Sometime during the journey was spent in tea and snacks and other in the recitation of The Quran. Yours truly noticed brother Nauman conversing with a fellow Jewish traveler and invited himself in with their permission, where brother Nauman became the translator.
The below notes refer to a discussion between the two travellers (with brother Nauman translating, since this is a translation the reference to brother Nauman is inevitably implied), where T refers to Talha (Hazrat db) and J implies Jew.
T: Did Hazrat Moosa (Peace be upon him) say that I am the last prophet and that no prophet will come after me?
J: No.
T: Prophet Muhammad (peace and blessings of Allah be upon him), however, did say that I am the last prophet and there will be no prophet after me.
T: Jews of Medina were waiting for which prophet and was there a reason for them to not believe in Prophet Muhammad (Peace be upon him)?
J: That is because Muhammad (Peace be upon him) ﷺkilled Jews in Medina
T: That’s not true
Hazrat Muhammad (peace be upon him) had signed a peace treaty with the Jews in Medina.
That treaty is on record even today known as ميثاق المدينة (Mīthāq al-Madīnah).
But despite this agreement, the Jews tried to kill the Prophet Muhammad (Peace be upon him) and they were punished for this crime. Should anyone in Israel, even a Jew, commit such a crime, will he or she not be punished?
J: Yes, he or she will be punished.
T: Why do you believe the Prophet Moosa (Peace by upon him)and the other Prophets of Bani Israel, because they are prophets of Allah or is there another reason.?
J: They are the prophets of Allah, that’s why we believe in them.
T: Should that be, then one should believe in all the prophets of Allah, or how would you claim of believe in Allah be justified or true?.
If your son obeys your 9 commands and refuses to obey one, will you call him obedient or disobedient?
J: He will be disobedient
T: (with The Qur’an in hand)
This is the Qur’an, this is Surah No 2 verse 136
Say (O, Muslims): We believe in Allah, and in what has been revealed to us, and in what has been revealed to Ibrahim, Isma‘il (Ishmael), IsHaq (Isaac), Ya‘qub and his children, and in what has been given to Musa and ‘Isa (Jesus) and what has been given to the prophets from their Lord: We make no difference between any of them, and to Him we submit ourselves.
If you also believe in Allah, then you should likewise believe in all the prophets.
J: Responded in silence
T: There is a way though, can I share it if you will?
J: Yes, please.
T: You believe in all the prophets, from Prophet Adam to Hazrat Moosa(Peace be upon them) with the exception of only two, one Prophet Eesa (Peace be upon him)and the other Prophet Muhammadﷺ (Peace be upon him).If you so wish, we will prove the prophecies of these two men with scientific arguments.
Should you be denied a life in Paradise and be drawn into hell because of their refusal, would there be another way of salvation?
It is time for you to confess the prophecies of both of these to us. If we do get the opportunity on the Day of Judgment, then we would testify your faith to Allah, ,
J: I’ll think about it
T: We do hope you will contemplate.
Fruits were being served to him during the course of the conversation.
He excused himself after our discussion.
One wonders if such a conversation would have had been had with a Christian, he would have recited the Kalima.
We had dinner in the train and reached Bukhara after 11:00 pm.
By the time we reached the hotel it was after 12:00 am. The hotel was premium and spacious.
We rested after Namaze Fajr and started from the hotel after Zuhr Namaz.
The opening ceremony was organised in a banquet hall with felicitation from Deputy Mufti e Aazam Uzbekistan, speaking in the local language, translated in English.
Finally, the function ended with the supplication from Hazrat Jee Damat Barkatahum.
We met Hazrat Qari Muhammad Tayyab Saahab(Hong Kong) in the same function.
Hazrat Qari Saahab is a native of the country of our Hazrat jee, a British national, resident in Hong Kong since very long being the crux of all the religious, intellectual and social activities there.
He has been granted permission of Khilafat from our Hazrat Damat barkatahum.
Qari Sahib Dammat Barkatahum’s has been a source of benefit, spread far and wide, his knowledge is firm and his way of preaching is clear, when he recites the Qur’an one wants to keep listening.
After completing this ceremony, we offered Asr prayers in the mosque of Hazrat Amir Qulaal (RA) and did Isaale Sawab (reciting some portion of The Quran and supplicating to Allah to pass the reward to them). Hazrat Amir kulal (RA) is the caliph of Hazrat Baba Samasi and Shaykh of Hazrat Shah Naqshband (RA).
It was about time to Maghreb Prayer therefore we did so and left.
Before visiting the Tomb of Hazrat Khwajaa Bahauddin Naqshband Bukhari (RA), in the same compound we visited the grave of his Mother and did Fateha Khaani (recital of some portion of The Quran) there.
Thereafter we visited the blessed tomb of Hazrat Khawaja Bahauddin Naqshband, after meditating (Muraqba) and doing Iisaale Sawab. This was followed by marking the hearts of companions with the name of Allah (as is the teaching of Shah Naqshband) on the insistence of some friends.
Later we offered Isha prayer in the mosque of the same premise. After Prayer, dinner was arranged in same banquet hall as was done at noon.
After finishing dinner we came back to the hotel.
The second day of Bukhara is Friday 1st November
The weather was rather cold today, the wind blew very fast. At 9:15 am, we departed to visit the tomb of Khawaja Abdul Khaliq Ghajdwani (RA) the premise where is very spacious and beautiful.
We visited the grave of Hazrat Khawaja Mohammad Arif Revgiri (RA) before noon prayers on Friday. After Salaam and Fatiha we went to the mosque located in the same premise for Friday noon prayers.
We offered Salatut-tasbeeh. The preacher delivered a speech in Uzbek Language. Most preachers and orators here are devoid of a beard. They do wear a big readymade turban (kept near the pupil).
Note: There is contention about Khwaja Muhammad Arif Revgiri (RA) being buried here or in Tajikistan, we discussed this with Hazrat Ji Damat Barakatahum, and learned that the belief of our Mashaykh is that he is resting in Tajikistan. There is some misunderstanding amongst people here. However only Allah knows the truth.
After prayers, we left for the grave of Hazrat Khawaja Mehmood Anjir Faghanawi (RA),
after Isaal-e-Sawab we had lunch. This was followed by meditation until Asr prayer for some time. There was a discussion on the purpose of our visit after prayers. The caravan departed to visit the Abu Ali Sina Museum.
Abu Ali Sina was a pioneer of philosophy and medicine, famous for his medicinal skills from early childhood, where the promise was visible at a very early age. Once the ruler of the city took ill, with no cure, when the best of doctors admitted failure, this young man reached the courtyard in an effort to heal the ruler.
When the ruler was cured, he happily said, “Ask for your wish and it will be granted.”
Bukhara was the most prosperous empire of the world then, the ruler could offer the greatest reward, where no one expected the reward that this devout young man asked for,
Abu Ali Sina said,
Your majesty, please allow me to use the Royal Library.
The ruler probably allowed him to use the Royal Library for perhaps one year.
Ibn Seena camped there, and did benefit through all the books in this library,
Modern medical science finds its roots and therefore all basis of its research and progress in Ibn Sina’s famous book, Al-Qanoon.
Asr Prayer was performed in the mosque of Hazrat Imam Bukhari (RA).
It is at this mosque that Hazrat Imam Bukhari (RA) had taught Bukhari Sharif for many years.
Between the Maghrib and Isha prayers we read the mention of these places in the travelogue Lahore se Khak-e-Bukhara aur Tashkent of Hazrat Jee Damat Barkatahum, later we read the first and last hadith of Bukhari Sharif and granted the companions the permission to narrate the Hadith further.
After the Isha prayer, we saw madrasah Mire Arab and had dinner soon after reaching the hotel thereon. We were very exhausted, however, Allah blessed us all, we woke up for the Tahajjud prayer. Daily after the Fajr prayer, some companions would gather in the room and meditate for about 40 minutes.
When we were about to leave madrasa and sat in the vehicle, Mufti Suheb Sahab (Bangalore) informed that some students from Madrasa Meer Arab are eager to meet and to take permission of Hadees.
These were 8 to 10 talented students from Final Year.
Before giving permission for Hadees, this humble person gave some instructions to them.
I asked them to be very careful about following Sunnah and after giving permission of Hadees, we again got back on our vehicles.
These students were standing there until all the vehicles departed.
Then we ate dinner after reaching the place of dinner and later returned to the lodging.
Saturday
This was the third and final day in Bukhara,
Had breakfast at 8 in the morning, then got ready and came down after prayer, sat in vehicle at 9 o’clock, left at 9:15 Am, attended the shrine of Khwaja Azizan Ali Ramitani (RA), after passing the rewards we went to shrine of another major Buzurg of our Silsila Hazrat Baba Samasi after passing the rewards we again went to the shrine of Hazrat Khawaja Bahauddin Naqshbandi, Hazrat Ji Dammat Barkatahum also came here, after doing meditation for some time here Hazrat Ji narrated some life situations of Hazrat Khwaja Bahauddin Naqshband Bukhari and prayed for him. After praying Zuhr we left for lunch.
We offered Asr prayer in a mosque with Half a dome. This mosque is a model of architecture, its dome is very beautiful and is built in such a way that it appears to have been built in half. Along with Sheikh Abu, a prominent disciple of Imam Muhammad (RA) in the graveyard adjoining it. Hafs Kabir and his sons, another scholar, Sheikh Abu Hafs Saghir, author of Fatwa Qazi Khan and other prominent scholars are buried. After passing the reward, we went to the city market.
The market is built around very beautiful buildings, with a pool on one side. The madrassa Meer e Arab is very close from here. We learned there were 3 madrassas where the communist had slaughtered more than 500 teachers and students and closed the madrassas.
Isha prayer was offered in the mosque of Imam Bukhari, and from there we went to hotel for dinner. We reached the hotel thereafter and were advised of the good news, of being able to meet Hazrat Ji Dammat Barkatham.
Yours truly along with Maulana Abdul Karim Sahab Akola, Maulana Amanullah Sahab Fatehpuri, Maulana Bilal Sahab Kenya, Mufti Inam-ul-Haq Sahab Gujarat, Qari Tayyab Sahab Hong Kong, Mustafa Kamal Sahab Mecca, and a few companions were present. After some time with permission of Hazrat Jee had all the companions (that had come with me) of India to meet Hazrat Jee.
Sunday
After the Fajr prayer, recitation and meditation, we had an early breakfast. We gathered in the lobby with our luggage at 8:30 am.
We took our passports from Hotel staff and boarded the vehicles.
We left for Samarkand at 9:15 am.
The convoy of four big buses and three mini-buses travelled in such a way that police cars lead, followed by special guest (VIPs) vehicles, with buses, ambulances behind buses, and police cars trailing at the end of convoy.
Yours truly was travelling in a minibus, along with Maulana Amanullah Sahab, Maulana Abdul Karim Sahab, and three Mashaykh from Syria, famous Naqshbandi scholar from Damascus Shaykh Rajab Deeb’s son Shaykh Doctor Mohammad Rajab Deeb, his son Omar and one elderly Scholar Shaykh Mahmood Shahada with his family.
In one of the other two mini-buses, Hazrat Jee Damat Barkatuhum along with sons and a few companions were en-route.
And in the second, Mustafa Kamal Sahab was travelling along with his family.
There was a guide available in each of the vehicle and all the vehicles were travelling in their own accord.
We stopped at a hotel at 11:00 am to refresh ourselves. We had to pay a fee of 3000 in local currency for using toilets.
The currency here is very low price, one Indian rupee is equivalent of 133 local currency here, so the price of tea here has to be paid in the thousands and price of lunch or dinner is in lakhs.
There was banter amongst friends stating if anyone prefers being a millionaire, he can visit Uzbekistan with one lakh Indian rupees and convert it into local currency to do so.
After finishing the tea, we left at 11:45 am for further travel.
Part 3
At around 2’o clock in the afternoon, we reached the blessed Center (Markaz) of the Leader of Muslims in Hadith (Ameerul-Mu’mineen-fil-Hadeeth), Sayyidina Imam Bukhaari Rahmatullahi Alaih. After a fresh ablution, we offered Zuhr Salaah with congregation (Jama’at) visiting Hazrat’s blessed tomb thereafter where we performed Isaale-sawab.
Hazrat’s grave is situated in the basement. A replica of the grave has been constructed vertically above for visitors to notice. The grave in the basement is placed such that only 8 people can visit it at a time and visiting there is with prior permission only. The basement is not open for visitors unless permitted
With the blessings of Hazrat Ji Da’amat Barakatuhum, few of us, amongst the disciples (Khuddaam), had got this letter of permit. Before we could visit the basement, another group was present there, paying their respects, and the organizers wanted to go break for lunch, thus with the intention of visiting again, we accompanied the organizers for our mid-day meal.
After the meal, we returned to the tom after offering Asr Salaah. The blessed Center was closed by that time. We went to Imam Sahab through, the very able student of Muhadul lmam Al Bukhari lil hadeesin Nabawi Ismail and requested for permission. He initially apologized. But as soon as he learnt our relations with Darul Uloom Deoband and Hazrat Peer Sahab Da’amat Barakatuhum, he was kind enough to allow the blessed Centre to be opened for us for few minutes. This way, all of us got a chance to visit the grave.
Bother Nu’maan Makki Sahab recited the related testimony (Sanad-e-muttasil) from Hazrat Shah Wali Ullah Rahimullah till Imam Bukhaari and then recited the first narrative (riwayat) of Bukhaari Shareef, then this yours truly recited the last narration. After that, we supplicated. During the supplication, the downpour of spiritual blessings was felt by one and all.
Leaving the grave, we learnt Hazrat ji Da’amat Barakatuhum’s arrival shortly.
Ismail mentioned that he has been waiting to meet Hazrat Ji Da’amat barakatuhum for quite a long time. I introduced him to Hazrat Ji and arranged for their meeting.
Yours truly spent few a minutes talking to Ismail and some of his friends.
The abstract was as below:
Students of Scholars of Hadeeth-e-Rasool: You have faced great difficulties in the cruel period of Communism, however now Allah has given you complete freedom by His grace
Therefore, collectively we – should start our journey backwards citing our glorious past,
All our work should be in accordance with the blessed way of our Prophet Sallallahu Alaihi Wasallam (Peace be upon him)
Pointing towards a tall tree nearby, I said to them, Look at the height of this tree, if its roots are not firmly grounded, it cannot stand on its trunk the way it does,
Similarly, our roots should be firmly tied to our past,
You are the Islamic scholars, heirs of the Prophets, and Islamic scholars are the heirs of the prophets.
Try to make a living model of the life of the Prophet (peace and blessings of Allah be upon him)
The students listened to me rather attentively. Bidding them goodbye, walking towards our vehicle, noticed Ismail came to bid adieu, again. Since it was opportune now (citing he held us in good regard by now, it was appropriate to counsel), I demonstrated the correct way to wear a skull cup. This was since his hair at the start of his forehead were visible, which should not be so as it is imitating the Jews. Rasoolullah Sallalahu Alaihi Wa Sallam’s cap used to cover the entire head. He immediately positioned his cap correctly and promised to wear it henceforth, as per the Sunnah.
Then we departed towards the city of Samarqand. We offered the Maghreeb Salaah in the mosque of Hazrat Khwajaah Ubaidullah Ahrar Rahmatullahi Alaih. After Salaah, for some time, Qaari Tayyib Sahab explained the circumstances of Hazrat Khwajah Ahrar RA. Thereafter we went towards his blessed center (Markaz), performed Isaale-sawab, and Medidated. Then we visited Hazrat Peer Sahab Da’amat barakatuhum in the mosque. Hazrat enlightened us with the circumstances and stature of Khwajaah Sahab. With afresh ablution, we visited the mosque, offered two raka’at salat-e-Haajat and supplicated for a longer while.
The heart has its reasons that reasons does not know, tears embraced the eyes beyond in a nonchalant manner. One continued to supplicate for long and for many a lot. Begged Allah, for all the goodness, for all sundry associated also requested for safety from all evil.
The court’s decision expected in India, had it’s lurking in our hearts and hence prayed for the peace in our country and for the guidance (hidayath) of all the countrymen.
After Isha Salaah, at the request of Imam Sahab, Hazrat Ji Da’amat Barakatuhum conducted the supplicated. Then as per convention followed here, Imam Sahab recited a few versesof The Quran, the intention being to render seek blessings for our spiritual elders. Then on the behest of Hazrat Ji, Qaari Tayyib Sahab recited first Rukuh of Suratul Mulk, with Hazrat Ji performing the concluding supplication. After the supplication, we meditated for a short while in the blessed room, adjacent to mosque, where Hazrat Khwajaah Ubaidullah Ahrar Rahmatullahi Alaih used to medidate.
At night, after dinner, Mashaiks delivered spiritual discourses (bayaanat). Initially, a gentleman from Pakistan started with an introductory discussion, then Abdul Kareem Sahab suddenly called my name unexpectedly, and directed me to talk something about Adab (manners). Yours truly presented some requisites on Aadaab-e-Safar, Aadaab-e-Rufaqah, and Aadaab-e-Shaykh in Urdu. After that one of our elders from Bangladesh read through a topic in English, in a detailed manner. It was followed by two more discourses in Bengali. After that the famous scholar and Daa’ee (one who invites towards Allah and Islam) from Damascus, Sheikh Muhammad Rajab Deeb Hafiza-ullah delivered a detailed discourse in Arabic, and simultaneously brother Mustafa Kamaal Sahib translated it in English. The gathering concluded at supplication by Moulana Habeebullah Sahab (Honorable son of Hazrat Ji).
Everyone was tired. On reaching the hotel, it was learnt that our group has been separated into several different hotels. Besides being too tired, it was also too late, so as a precaution, I offered Tahajjud Salaah and lied down to sleep.
Monday 4th Nov
After Fajr Salaah, rested for a while and then got ready, to start after breakfast. It had rained during the night; leaving its effects in the rather cold morning. The cool breeze gave away news of snow having begun in Bukhara. We visited the tomb of Imam Abu Mansoor Al-Maturidi Rahmatullahi Alaih to begin with. After the communist revolution, this whole region was captured by the Jews and they had constructed their homes. Only Imam Maturidi’s tomb was intact. In the aftermath of Russia’s defeat, their homes were demolished, and this tomb was rebuilt in the year 2000.
One found many a stone plaque, in Persian language; the guide informed us, when the Jewish houses were demolished these plaques were found under their homes. Soon after, we went to the observatory Museum of Mirza Ulugh Beg.
Ulugh Beg was the grandson of Amir Timur, ruler of Samarqand, and an expert of astronomy. He had built an observatory and managed to arrive at calculations that would help understand the function of the entire solar system. The fact that these calculations when compared with modern day arithmetic calculations to comprehend the function of the solar system it was astounding to realise the difference in time was a mere one minute and two seconds. This speaks volumes of his arithmetic genius. What cements one’s recognition in this belief is the fact that this difference is not due to human error, as would be expected, but due to the difference in Sun’s rotation that could have occurred during the time the calculations were done.
The Communists had destroyed all of this too, leaving only part of the observatory. distance little farther away, Imam Abu Al Laith Samarqandi, and Sahib-e-Hidayath – Imam Abul Hasan Ali bin Abi Bakar Al Maghinani (593 H), and some other Mashaykhs are burried. Due to lack of time, we couldn’t visit there. We performed Isaal-e-sawab from where we were.
After this, we visited the blessed tomb of Hazrat Qusum bin Abbas RadiAllahu Anhuma. In this region he is known as “Shah-e-Zindah”.
He was present during the burial of Rasoolullah Sallalahu Alaihi Wasallam (peace be upon him) and came out the very last from the pious grave.
In this region, by the grace of Allah, he was substantially involved in preaching Islam. He was martyred at the hands of an unfortunate being.
We offered Zuhr Salaah in the mosque, adjacent to the first tomb.
Then we visited the blessed grave. The grave is at some height. There are numerous graves in the entire area. The leaders and the rulers wanted to get buried in the neighbourhood of Hazrat Qusum RadhiAllahu Anhu. The buildings, despite being old, are extremely attractive and beautiful. Our guide pointed out that some of the buildings here are a good thousand years old. One finds mountains of mud instead as against stones around.
After the meal, we paid our respect Hazrat Peer Sahab Da’amat Barakatuhum since he left for an onward journey with his elder son Habeebullah Sahab as scheduled. Younger son Moulana Saifullah Sahab was with us, scheduled to return on Friday.
From here, we went to Ruhabad. This is one big compound, in which, on one hand, a scholar (Aalim) from the present Era is buried, on the other hand, in one big mausoleum, the conqueror of half of the world, Amir Timur is buried near the feet of his Sheikh-o-Murshid.
Amir Timur, better known as Timur Lang (Timur the Lame), had a right leg slightly shorter than his left leg being so due to an injury from an enemy sword in an early age. This however did not contribute to him showing any signs of weakness in him. He used to attack his enemies like a lion and smash enemies’ rows after rows.
One of the important things which we got to know after coming here is that the whole family of Amir Timur was Haafiz-e-Quraan. Their led a devout life. Each one of them had faith in their elders and very closely associated with their Mashaiks.
There was so much gold used in the mausoleums here, that the Russians carried gold on trains from here.
We offered Asr and Maghreeb Salaah in the mosque here and performed Isaal-e-sawab between the two Salaahs. After Salaah, we left for Registan. This is an extremely beautiful, spacious and concrete field, which has madrasas on three sides. The buildings are lush and beautiful, one has seldom seen such architectural finesse.
On the left, there is a madrasa for girls, which was built by Mirza Ulugh Beg in 14th century B C. It is said that, for a very long time, Moulana Jalaluddin Rumi, the master (ustaad) of Mirza Ulugh Beg, was the Dean in this madrasa. After 200 years, the madrasah on the right side was built for the boys. The speciality of this madrasa was that every graduate student from here ended up being Justice of the city.
There is a rather well-built madrasa, with an equally beautiful mosque inside. The sights leave one admiring the architectural finesse. Words fail one to describe their beauty. It is a sad state of affair now that these corridors of education now serve as a marketplace.
We returned to the restaurant and had dinner.
Tuesday 5th Nov
We arrived in the hotel lobby by 6:30 am as was advised. However due to delays breakfast began at 7 am and by the time the vehicles departed for the day, the clock marched at 8:45 am.
Qarshi, is at some distance before Samarqand, where Sayyidina Imam Abu Al-Mu’in Nasafi Rahimullah is buried. He is the author of Al-Aqa’idul Nasafiyah, interpreted by Imam Taftazani.
At 12 noon we arrived at the tomb of Imam Nasafi. With afresh ablution, we paid our respects at the blessed tomb and performed Isaale-sawab. After that we went to an ancient historical mosque for the Zuhr Salaah.
We arrived at restaurant soon after Salaah; the food was arranged in a rather elegant hotel named Shahana. The welcome arrangement were equally magnificent. In keeping with their tradition, music was being played. Yours truly requested a friend to stop the music, however he said that the situation here is rather sensitive. The government has been keeping a strong eye on cultural occurrences and does not welcome religious bindings with a request to pray for it. One felt very uneasy as such just when the music stopped making us wonder whose supplication was answered by Allah. It was later learned that the reception was organized at the Governor’s directive. Therefore, there was no room to intervene.
Food tradition here does not welcome Chilly to smell, leave alone taste, the rice preparing otherwise relished as spicy Biryani back home, could be termed as Sweet at best.
After the food, we offered Zuhr Salaah, at a place in the city.
We departed towards Termez, which takes about 5 hours. En-route we stopped and offered Maghreeb Salaah just before its time was due to end and offered Isha Salaah soon as it’s time began. At 10:30 pm in the night, we arrived at the tomb of Hazrat Al-Imam Abu Isa al-Tirmidhi Rahimaullah. This has a very big compound, with a spacious and beautiful Mosque near the tomb. The cold spoke well for itself making the warm jacket and muffler’s feel cold themselves. Hot water is arranged for in the toilets and ablution rooms everywhere. This tomb is located about 15 km outside Termez city.
We performed Isaal-e-sawab and proceeded arriving in Termez at about 1:00 am, had dinner and went to the hotel. It was almost 3:00 am by the time I offered Tahajjud and went to sleep.
Wednesday 6th Nov
Rested after Fajr Salaah. At 10:00 am, took a bath and got ready. beginning the visits after breakfast. We reached the tomb of Hazrat Hakeem Tirmidhi Rahmatullahi Alaih at about 12:00 noon overseeing river Amu (River Jayhoun) en-route, on the other side of which, lies Afghanistan.
The Afghanistan border is very close to the tomb.
But the border was fenced with electric wires with a current of 12000 watts, therefore we were strictly forbidden to go nearby.
Hakim Tirmidhi is a spiritual elder of the second century AH blessed with the companionship of Imam Abu Hanifah (Rahmatullahi Alaih). He lived for 90 years. He was a great saint, classified scholar and a brilliant physician of his time. His hospital remains were visibly found, until the re-construction of the tomb.
Due to the large crowd at the blessed tomb, we sat for a while. Yours truly briefly discussed the importance and the method of remembrance of Allah (zikr) and then requested Moulana Saifullah Sahab (honourable son of Hazrat Ji Da’amat Barkatuhum), to shed some light on the life of Hazrat Hakim Tirmidhi Rahmatullahi Alaih. Maulana recounted an incident in the youth of Hazrat Hakim Tirmidhi Rahmatullahi Alaih that he was very beautiful. Once upon a time a woman came to the clinic and invited him towards fornication. He rejected her proposal and sent her back. After a long time, once in his old age, suddenly a thought appeared in his mind that he could have accepted her proposal at that time, and later repented, there being no harm in doing so. The moment this thought appeared, he cried profusely, poindering I got saved in my youth and now in the old age this is the state of my heart. He slept while crying, with the Rasoolullah Swallallahu Alaihi Wasallam visiting him in his dream and asked him with kindness, “What has happened?” He replied, “Huzoor (your majesty), during my Youth, Allah had been graceful to me and now in old age this has been the state of my heart.” The Prophet Swallallahu Alaihi Wasallam, said that “During that time, compared to now, you were more close to my period. It was the blessing of this closeness of time with mine”.
A place for Spiritual Retreat (Chilla Khanah)
When we came out after meditation and supplication), we gathered of a narrow place, where Hazrat used to spend 40 days therein (spiritual retreat for 40 days). This is a very deep tunnel being narrow from the inside. Here, Hazrat used to spend time in remembering Allah. Yours truly stood there sharing with the friends that in this kind of place, these Hazraats used to get two benefits:
- Disconnect from creatures (Makhlooq)
- Remembrance of the grave
two things, to be sought after.
In the tomb of Khwaja Ala-ud-din Attar, we stopped at one place and offered the Asr Salaah. We passed by the river Jayhoun, which is also known as River Amu. Before Maghreeb, we had lunch in a banquet hall. Today, it was a first here one witnessed chillies with food, in the salad. This was probably the effect of being in Afghanistan’s neighbourhood. Allah knows best.
Immediately after the meal, we offered Maghreeb Salaah and went towards the tomb.
After performing Isaale-sawab and Isha Salaah, we started for Termez at 8:00 pm. The place is called Chaghaniyan, about a 150 km away from Termez.
Thursday 7th Nov
An early breakfast saw us leaving for the airport at 7 30 am. There was a chartered flight from Termez to Tashkent arriving in Tashkent at 11:00 am. Offered Zuhr Salaah in the mosque of Uzbekistan’s Former Prime Mufti, Sheikh Muhammad Sadiq Muhammad Yusuf, Rahmatullahi Alaih. A farewell ceremony was arranged for, after the Salaah.
After the Quranic recitation, welcome speech, and introduction about the Sheikh Marhum (may Allah be pleased with him), Sheikh Muhammad Rajab Deeb Hafiza-ullah delivered a detailed discourse in Arabic followed by yours truly expressing his gratitude in Arabic.
(All praise is towards Allah, who made us the followers of the religion of Islam, the cult of Ahle Sunnat wal Jama’at, and Naqshbandi Mujaddidi Tariqa, and granted us the opportunity to visit the holy shrines of Imam of Silsila-e Naqshbandia, Hazrat Khawaja Bahauddin Naqshband Bukhari and other great Mashaykhs Rahmatullahi Alaihim Ajmaeen.
On this blessed and glorious occasion, I am grateful to the Uzbek government and the officials here, who have been an epitome of sincerity, loyalty, service & love.
keeping us in comfort, more than our ask .
Likewise, I am deeply grateful to Hazrat Shaykh Abdul Karim Sahib and Brother Muzaffar Sahab whose sincere and friendly efforts took this convoy of sincerity and love to its destination helping me gather a bagful of blessings in the company of spiritual elders of the present and past, and the great Mashayks.
My sincere feeling is that, in this convoy, the days spent with faith and love, in the warm fraternal environment were precious days of my life.
This convoy of love and faith whose members, although, of different nations, of nationalities like Syria and France, Malaysia and Indonesia, India and Pakistan, Bangladesh, the bond of Faith in Allah, Itteba-e Sunnath, Love of Ahlullah was dominant with no signs of being strangers.
In the words of Shaykh Mahmood Shahada Hafizullaah:
As if we have spent these blessed days and nights in Paradise in the company of the Messenger of Allah Swallallahu Alaihi Wasallam.
I am grateful on behalf of myself and on behalf of the Indian convoy accompanying me, which are represented by Maharashtra, Gujarat, Uttar Pradesh, Karnataka, Bengal, Delhi, representing almost entire India.
Everyone knows that India is a very large country,
As if it is like a continent in itself.
The distances between its two provinces are sometimes over two thousand and three thousand kilometres.
In the end, I put up my hands to pray to God Almighty, to bless this country with benedictions, protect its inhabitants and all the Muslims of the world from every evil and trials.
I am thankful once again for your audience to my ineloquent requests so sincerely and with lots of love.
And leaving, with the hope that Allah, likewise, will gather all of us at the Pond of Abundance (Ḥawḍ al-Kawthar) along with his beloved Prophet Swallallahu Alaihi Wasallam and Grant us space in Jannatul Firdaus near the feet of Prophet Swallallahu Alaihi Wasallam.
Peace be upon the Messenger of Allah, his family (Ahle Bait), the companions (As’haab), and all the pious friends of Allah (Awliya Allaah) until the Day of Judgment.
The beginning is with the praise of Allah and end is also with his Praise.
Then, Moulana Saifullah Sahab (honourable son of Hazrat Ji Da’amat Barkatuhum) delivered a discourse in Urdu, and Sheikh Mustafa Kamaal Sahab and Sheikh Abdul Kareem Sahab delivered a discourse in English. By this time, Asr Adhaan had been called out. The gathering was wound up with the prayer (Dua) of Sheikh Muhammad Rajab Deeb. After Asr Salaah, we arrived at a restaurant by travelling a long distance, had the meal just before Maghreeb. After the meal, we immediately offered the Maghreeb Salaah and left to visit Mus’huf-e-Usmaani. This is the same blessed Mus’huf (Codex) which Hazrat Usmaan RadiAllahu Unhu was reciting at the moment, when the atrocious enemies attacked him, and he was martyred. Hazrat Usmaan’s blood was spread on the verses “Fasayakfeekahumullah wahuwas samee’ul aleem” in this same book and it still exists. But the organisers have not kept that page opened, rather surah ‘Aa’raf’ has been kept opened.
With serenity and eyes full, we had to depart to the airport. On the way, we stopped at freshen up, with some friends shopping. We arrived at the airport at 9:15 pm. The hosts bid goodbye with lots of warmth and love, gifted the program CD, and also provided the food packets to each one of us.
After completing the formalities of check-in and immigration, we offered Isha Salaah in congregation (Jama’at), and sat there while waiting for the boarding.
Here we met a group from Kyrgyzstan, who was travelling to Pakistan for 4 months. We offered food in their service, which they gladly accepted.
Yours truly said to his companions, “Look, they are the guests of Allah. They are going in the way of Allah, and how Allah has sent their food through coolies like us. Such are the divine instructions (Takwini decisions) of Allah.
May Allah grant all of us the absolute certainty of being Theocentric.”
Boarding began at 11:40 pm and around 12: 10 am the flight departed. We reached New Delhi at around 3:00 am. It was around 4:30 am at arrivals. Moulana Rizwaan Sahab was waiting with vehicles. Zubair Sallamahu along with his uncle was a guest at some other place in New Delhi. Brother Taher and Moulana Abdul Kareem Sahab had to go to Terminal 1, a car took them off.
Along with me, Moulana Amaanullah Sahab, brother Osama, Hafiz Abdul Razzaq Sahab, Zafar bhai went inside. We offered Fajr Salaah and took some rest. I delivered the Friday Discourse in Moulana Rizwaaan sahab’s Mosque and lead the Friday Salaah. In the night, the three of us (your truly, Osama, Moulana Amaanullah Sahab) flew to Mumbai in the Air India Flight. Reached airport at time, offered Asr and Maghreeb Salaah at the airport. But the flight got delayed. It was scheduled to arrive at 9 15 pm in Mumbai, but it departed New Delhi only at around 10 pm. Thus, we reached home at around 2:30 am.
May Allah help us retain the blessings of this journey forever. May Allah protect our Hazrat Da’amat Barakatuhum.
And the blessings that are always being bestowed upon the hearts of the pious friends of Allah (Awliya Allah), along with your beloveds, may a small sprinkling of these blessings be shared with ascetics like us.
